Pattern Play: The History of Toile

When we see trends on the rise we can’t help but notice a pattern—and when you think of “grandmillennial”, you think of toile. Who can resist its pastoral power? But how did the classic swing back into fashion? Just who were all those folks lazing on lawns? Here’s the history—and how to incorporate it into your own space.

Where’d it come from: 

Initially developed in 1750s Ireland, the print rose to prominence ten years later, when Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf began hand-printing cotton fabrics, leading to its distinct French name. Toile is French for cloth, and the most common version is Toile de Jouy, named after the small French village where Oberkampf’s textile mill produced his lush scenic prints. Since then, the pattern has been a favorite of everyone from Marie Antoinette to Kips Bay Designer Sheila Bridges, who created her own take on the motif, Harlem Toile. Ariel even created a jungle themed version with artist Ashley Begley for her Chasing Paper wallpaper line

Why it works: 

Toile has it all—part floral, part storytelling, with a repeat that doesn’t feel busy, but provides tons of micro magic moments when you get close. Perhaps what’s most appealing is its ability to feel completely traditional yet wonderfully timely. You can find versions specific to your city or that highlight modern comforts, or (shoutout to Shelia) prints that defy Black stereotypes and are featured in the Smithsonian Design Museum's permanent collection. It’s both contemporary and classic, adding a pedigree and patina to even the most modern of spaces.

Where we love it

Just about everywhere. Toile is especially impactful in a small space, like a bathroom or guest room, and looks doubly divine when you pair wallpaper and fabric applications— the all-over effect evokes gasp-inducing luxury. So go ahead, bring it from the window to the wall. Or use it as a foil to clean lines and modern materials—a duvet on a lacquered bed, an upholstered wingback breaking up a California cool bungalow – or make a statement with a giant framed sample of a vintage fabric.

Written by Kim Jacobs.

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